A beautiful body of water, Pa Khoang Lake-is 17km east of Dien Bien Phu, on the road from Son La, and 4km off the highway, About 15km drive around the lake's edge, or an hour's boat ride plus a 3km forest walk, is the bunker of General Giap, the Vietnamese commander of the Dien Bien Phu campaign. There is httle left to see, but for war junkies it is an essential stop on the trail of Vietnam's legendary military tactician. There is also a remote Thai village that can be visited across the lake. Hire a motor boat  to the bunker or villages, and stay for a spot of lunch.