With forests covering about half of the country, 20 National Protected Areas, 49 ethnic groups, over 650 bird species and hundreds of mammals, it's no mystery why Laos is known as having Southeast Asia's healthiest ecosystems and is a haven for travellers looking to get off the beaten path. Nowadays there are many tour companies and local tour guides offering forest trekking, cave exploration, village homestays and special river journeys to where the roads don't go. These types of activities are very popular in Laos and their availability has exploded over the past five years. Following the success of the Nam Ha Ecotourism Project in Luang Nam Tha Province, which began in 1999, the ecotourism industry has grown from the bottom up and today the Lao Government is actively promoting ecotourism as one way to help reduce poverty and support the protection of the environment and local culture. It is estimated that culture and nature based tourism generates more than half of the country's US$150 million in annual tourism revenue.

The Lao National Tourism Administration defines ecotourism as: Tourism activity in rural and protected areas that minimizes negative impacts and is directed towards the conservation of natural and cultural resources, rural socio-economic development and visitor understanding of, and appreciation for, the places they are visiting.' A few Lao tour operators and guesthouses have taken this definition to heart and operate their businesses in a way that uphold the principles of Lao ecotourism.

In Luang Nam Tha in the north the Boatlanding Guesthouse (www.theboatlanding.com) is Laos's first eco-lodge and winner of several international awards. Visit one of the National Protected Areas (NPAs) with Green Discovery Laos (www.greendiscoverylaos.com), which has offices in Luang Nam Tha, Tha Khaek, Vientiane, Pakse and Vang Vieng. In Luang Prabang, Tiger Trails Resort (www.laos-adventures.com) has partnered with local communities to offer treks, elephant rides and boat trips in the Nam Khan Valley. In the south, high quality eco-accommodation can be found in Champasak Province's Kingfisher Eco-Lodge (www.kingfisherecolodge.com), nestled inside the Se Pian NPA. For a chance to see wild elephants, don't miss the village-operated Elephant Tower at Ban Na (www.trekkingcentrallaos.com), about an hour from Vientiane. There are also locally run eco-guide services attached to the Provincial Tourist Information Centres in Luang Nam Tha, Luang Prabang, Savannakhet and Champasak Provinces offering one to four day trips at fair prices. These can be booked on a walk-in basis - see Where to Trek and www.ecotourismlaos.com for details.

Unfortunately, some uninformed companies label everything as "ecotourism" therefore it is important to determine who is actually upholding the principles of Lao ecotourism, and who is simply greening their pockets. Some questions to ask to ensure you are on the right track are:

Does my trip financially benefit local people, help to protect biodiversity and support the continuation of traditional culture?

What will I learn on this trip, and what opportunities will local people have to learn from me?

Are facilities designed in local style, use local, natural construction materials, and conserve         : energy and water? Is there local food on the menu?

Will I be led by a local guide who is from the area visited?

Is there a permit, entrance fee or other fee included in the price of the trip that is directed towards conservation activities?

Are there sensible limits in place concerning group size and frequency of departures to minimize negative impacts?

Supporting businesses that can give clear, positive and believable answers to these questions will most likely result in an enjoyable, educational experience, where you make more than a few local friends along the way. It also raises the profile of sustainable business operators, hopefully encouraging others to follow their example.