The magnificent temples of Angkor are renowned for their splendor, but these represent no more than the capital of what was an unrivalled empire spanning across Southeast Asia. In the steaming jungles of Cambodia, for­gotten to the world for centuries, lie several stunning religious monuments that make the perfect excuse to extend your stay by a week or more.

The beauty of this tough trip on rough roads is that it is the alternative, adventurous way to link Cambodia's vibrant capital, Phnom Penh, with sublime Siem Reap, gateway to Angkor. Starting in Phnom Penh, head north through Kompong Thorn and on to the pre-Angkorian capital of Sambor Prei Kuk , Asia's first temple city. Farewell civilisation from here and make the tough journey northwest to the vast jungle temple of Preah Khan , one of the largest structures from the Angkorian era.

Continue on to Koh Ker, a usurper capital from the 10th century, with a wealth of monuments spread throughout the forest. Travel to Koh Ker via Khvau if you're brave, or go the easy way via Tbeng Meamhey , provincial capital of Preah Vihear Province, if you are taking your time.

Last of the temples is the king of the mountain temples, Prasat Preah Vihear , the height of Angkorian architectural audacity, its foun­dation stones stretching to the edge of a precipitous cliff. Breathe in the views as they are simply enormous. From here, it is a long run back to Siem Reap  via the former Khmer Rouge stronghold of Anlong Veng , where you can visit Pol Pot's cremation site.