Cambodia is only a small country and even though the roads are often bad and travel slow, most of the memorable places can be visited in a month.

Setting out from PhnomPenh , take in the beauty of the northeast, following the Run to the Hills itinerary . Make a choice between Ratanakiri Province  and Mondulkiri Province  to ensure maxi­mum time elsewhere. The gentle hills of Mondulkiri are better for budget travellers as traversing overland is easy, while Ratanakiri is connected to the capital by plane for midrangers seeking adventure. Tough choice... can't decide? Flip a coin, if you can find one in this coinless country.

Head to the south coast, taking the route outlined in The Cambodia Encounter. Take your time and consider a night or two in Kep or one of the nearby islands, and a boat trip from Sihanoukville to explore the maritime wonders of Ream National Park. On your way back to the capital, check out Kirirom National Park , home to pine trees, black bears and some spectacular views of the Cardamom Mountains.

Then it's time to turn northwest and head to charming Battambang , one of Cambodia's best preserved colonial-era towns and a base to discover rural life and ride the bamboo train. Leave in style with a speedboat to Siem Reap , passing through stunning scenery along the snaking Sangker River, and turn your attention to the temples of Angkor.

Visit all the greatest hits in and around Angkor, but use the extra time to venture further to the rival capital of Koh Ker, cloaked in thick jungle, or Prasat Preah Vihear-where it is all about location, location, location-a mountain temple perched precariously atop a cliff-face on the Thai border.